Ibiza: Best of the rest

Completing my series of posts on Ibiza which mainly focused on the immediate surroundings and enjoyment of Eivissa (Ibiza Town), this short post delivers 3 top tips for the rest of the island. Ibiza really does have depth and when you venture north up the island and inland, you'll find small local communities living with an Iberian twist and landscapes with there own natural glow.


Sunset Cliffs
There's many a location to see a good sunset in Ibiza. If you want one of the regular spots or a commercial sunset such as Café Mambo, then you'll find all you need to know in a guide book. If you want something hidden, something spectacular, then this spot just outside Santa Agnes de Corona is the spot you’re looking for.

Head to Santa Agnes and make your way to the T junction in front of the Church. Santa Agnes is a nice little hamlet for a wander but that's not the reason you’re here! Approaching the junction so that you only have a choice of left or right, take a left on to Cami de la Talaia and proceed along this road for approximately 1.8km. About half way along, the road bends to the left and you'll pass by a couple of villa's and house on either side or the road before the landscape returns to farm land with great views across the fields on the left. You know you're close when you reach a forested area on your right. The road twists a little and after about 200m from the start of the forest, the road once again takes a sharper bend to the left. It’s on this bend that you'll see some clearings amongst the trees on your right. This is the car park and you should pull-in to here and find yourself somewhere to stop. The area still looks inconspicuous but through the trees, you should just about spot the outline of the bar and as you walk towards the it, you're eyes will pan to the right as you see the vista spanning out to the west across the Balearic Sea.

The bar seems to be run by an old local couple who have the glasses on ice ready to serve you a beer as appetising as the sunset you're about to experience. With beer in hand, the best spot for sundown is to perch yourself right on the edge of the cliff with your feet dangling down, listen to the waves below crashing against the rocks in this peaceful and spectacular spot. The rest is down to nature!

Out of town dining experience
You'll hear it mentioned many times as you plan to visit Ibiza and during your stay but you'll wonder whether it’s worth the risk of isolation for an evening in rural Ibiza, the answer is most definitely 'yes'.  Bambuddha Grove (www.bambuddha.com) situated about 9km from Ibiza town is a fusion of building-cum-bamboo field dedicated to the great Buddha.

With a Café del Mar style atmosphere, this destination restaurant will

keep you happy all evening as the DJ's spin the tunes through to 4am. Bambuddha Grove is an experience, not purely because of its Asian style cooking but for the atmosphere and the people watching. Run by a very 'virile' owner in his 60's (watching him chat up the ladies was an experience in itself!), he'll make himself know throughout the night as you enjoy your meal. However, having eaten, you've a choice of experiences to stick around and enjoy. From the cocktail bar to the back room club or maybe take a shisha with your drink on one of the large beds at Bambuddha.

Just one thing to remember, if you're intending to be one of the last ones out, book a taxi home in advance!!

For something a little more upbeat try Aura (www.auraibiza.com), the newer of the two again set in rural Ibiza about 14km from Ibiza Town. The tapas-cum-cocktail bar-cum-club is metropolitan in style with a well-polished crowd ready to stay late and spend the money. Outdoor dining with indoor club, they have some interesting DJ's and music nights so watch and listen out for any special events that will make it a must.  The night we visited, it was Danny Rampling's birthday which drew in a friendly crowd of friends and fans alike.

Santa Gertrudis
Sleepy village going through some expansion and with it, building a nice cultural experience around the town. It’s great for a walk during the day with a couple of craft, fabric and art shops making it interesting. It comes in to its own in the evening with many alfresco restaurants lining the streets. However, the point of interest here is the local auction house Casi Todo (www.casitodo.com).

Casi Todo is an Aladdin’s cave which

continues to be re-freshed from the house clearances they under-take on the island. The weird, the wonderful and the eclectic can be found in here and its worth exploring the rooms in search of hidden treasures you may just wish to bid on!

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Enjoy everything Ibiza & Formentera has to offer. Ever evolving, guide books and blogs can only give you a sense of direction. The rest is up to you.

3 Top Tips: Eivissa beach-life

Beaches in Ibiza are integral to the whole way of life out there. The beach is the replacement pool if your budget doesn't stretch; it's a meeting place for lazy days and one of the best sources for finding that nights big party. Best of all, it's about people watching to get you in the Ibiza spirit. So let’s not beat around the bush but get straight in to my top 3 beach-life tips when in Eivissa.

Salines Beach - Leave the car keys behind and unwind to the beat!
Salines is a favourite of mine. Chilled, with a musical background that lasts all day. It's also probably the most accessible beach from Ibiza Town other than Talamanca (see below). A bus ride away for €2 and you're there in 25 minutes flat. Newish air conditioned bus mean the journeys actually pleasant and there 'shirts-on' policy means you won't be rubbing against some sweaty torso. Catch the bus (Number 11) from Av de Isidoro Macabich in Ibiza Town and it will drop you off about 150 metres from the beach. There a little shop next to the drop off stop which serves fresh Iberian sandwiches to order so you can stock up with food and drink when you get there.

The beach is long and sandy. Many people spend the day walking up and down the beach, feet in the warm waters just people watching. Most clubs send out promoters to the beach in the afternoon, parading up and down adverting their nights.

From the sublime to the ridiculous, you’ll see it all if you visit this beach often!! Impromptu parties, costumes and music. On this beach, sometimes the freaks come-out at mid-day rather than mid-night!! If you're intending to go clubbing in the evening, watch out for these promoters. It doesn't cost anything to take a wrist band which will get you in to the club at a discounted price.

So you've got there and you now want to choose a good spot on the beach. Where do you go? Human nature is to stick in groups and you certainly see this on Salines. As you walk out on to the beach, you'll find groups in the following order from right to left. Far right to middle (possibly the nicest part of the beach regarding sands) you'll find a younger crowd with sporadic families. The young crowd being lazier in style won't walk further than they have to and this proves to be the most popular and crowded part of Salines. The Jockey Club set their musical background with laid-back house playing through the day. This is the end that the party boats also tend to moor.

Just past the Jockey Club, a little further to the left and you enter the nudist section. Full nudity is allowed in this section but not essential. A little further away from the Jockey Club and the house music mellows in to the background. If you're comfortable with your surroundings, this is where you can guarantee yourself a little bit extra beach space per person!

Finally, you have the beach area to the left of the nudist section and beyond. This is the area to head to in my opinion! It has its own Iberian chilled vibe throughout the day courtesy of La Trix, a beautiful set bar and restaurant with a DJ all day long (and often a saxophonist or bongo player playing along) and masseuse. The beach quality deteriorates quite a lot outside La Trix due to seaweed and rock so situate yourself on the edge of the nudist section in order to benefit still from sandy beaches with the La Trix soundtrack in your ears. Save your beach walk for once you've chilled out a bit and get to this spot a lot quicker by walking parallel to the beach all the way through the car park. Count the beach entrance paths until you get to the 4th or 5th. Enter here and you're almost there!

Beyond the bar, Salines turns in to a dirt track and rises in height away from the beach. Many people never wander past this point but if you're early and you do, you can find your own little private beach for the day, dotted along this coast and easily accessible by path or boat. Bring your own music and you've got the perfect spot with views out to Formentera.

Formentera - A different experience all together.
Like a holiday in a holiday, a day trip to Formentera is a get-away in itself and quite an adventure. This little island off the coast of Ibiza has yet to be fully explored by myself. With hippy markets, little villages and a town, it's very different from Ibiza in that it has none of the glam Ibiza is dressed in. But it’s cool, chilled and getting cooler as more and more people visit year on year and restaurants with great sunset spots start to pop up.

Ferries to Formentera can differ greatly in price, and in speed. The large Balearia car ferries are the most expensive at around 40€ return for a day trip. But they are also the fastest with a crossing taking approximately 30 mins.  The smaller ferries although cheaper could have you bobbing around on the sea for up to an hour. That’s something my tummy just wouldn't enjoy.

This tip is about a very special beach on Formentera. Special as it gives you two beaches in one and also leads to a hidden walkway in the sea which if you're brave enough leads to yet a smaller island with exclusive beach. Upon disembarking from your ferry, rent out a bike (or scooter) for the day and make a bee-line back in the direction that your ferry has just arrived in. As you face the port, you want to start peddling right and stick to the coast. Up a ramp about 150m meters from the far end of the port, you'll find yourself on an elevated path than runs along the coast. The scenery is Mediterranean here with great views of the moored up millionaire yachts beyond the nature reserve. Just keep cycling, past the salt lakes always sticking to the right at any major junction until you get to a bar which marks the point at which you can't cycle beyond (because its sand!). The beach seems busy here and it’s a popular spot for water-sports. Chill-out for a while at this point. Have a drink and prepare for the next instalment!!

Bikes locked up, it’s time to make the rest of the journey on foot. Beyond the bar and over the hill, you'll see a long sand bank stretching out in front of you which over the course of about 1km will narrow, in some places becoming no wider that 30 metres, two beaches in one! Caribbean in style, this low sandbank stretches out in to the distance and many a visitor will settle for any of the spots along here, not-crowded and beautiful views.

All along this stretch, you'll come across miniature spiritual cities built from stones, rocks and distressed wood washed up by the sea. These monuments, build by the hands of hippies and revellers at full moon parties are amazing in quantity and design (see picture).

Marvelling at these will slow your journey but the fun bit is still to come!

Eventually, you will reach the end of the sandbank. A little beach with a lifeguard station denotes this point. This in itself is nothing special and depending on the time of year or day will not look anything other than where beach meets sea whilst in the distance, about 200 metres away you'll see another island, tantalisingly close but looking out of reach. Think again!

Like so many things in nature, there is a hidden secret under the warm calm waters before your eyes. The rocks on your left denote the start of a hidden walkway. A sand shelf that stretches to the island in front of you and provides a passage to the beach, frequented by the rich in boats or the brave on foot! How you want to be part of the in-crowd now! The sight at busy times is a spectacle. A human chain of refugees, holding their belongings above head as they make the journey to a better future, well at least for a couple of hours! The experience isn't one for the weak, short or faint-hearted!! 

As you make the journey over, anyone around 5'7" can expect the sea level to reach about neck level towards the middle before dropping to knee level for the rest of the trek. I found the journey manageable going out with the sea giving me a little helping hand along the way. The experience coming back in the deeper water was more challenging. The helping hand from Mother Nature was now more a force for evil and as I lost a little strength battling against my challenge, I did start to worry. But the deep part up to neck high is very short and even I were able to swim out of trouble. If you're cautious of the experience, the sight is still worth the trek for entertainment alone!!

Talamanca - not worth it!
Maybe the most accessible beach from Ibiza Town is Talamanca. Beyond the Marina, past Pacha and very close to Ocean Drive, Talamanca is known as the locals beach. Its a little bay, looked down upon by villa's and apartments in the softly sloping hills. The sand is grainier here, and other than a café/shop has little in the way of facilities or coolness. It is the beach that the locals 'pop out' to and not a destination beach.

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Next post tomorrow is the last in this short series focusing on Ibiza and covers 3 top tips for the rest of the island.

3 Top Tips: Eivissa Accomodation

This post scratches the surface of accommodation.  Ibiza is an island with its own unique spirit that can carry you away.  It can be enjoyed in so many different ways depending on who you are, what you want and where you're going.  This post looks at accommodation in the heart of Eivissa which can make or break budgets.

In Eivissa, accommodation can vary vastly. The luxury Ibiza Grand, Ocean Drive and Pacha Hotels are offset at the other end by tired, often poorly located or just bad value small hotels. What may seem a smaller price tag at the beginning can soon build up hefty additional costs which could have been avoided with a little forethought. You can avoid making some costly basic mistakes and have a better vacation if you take time out before booking and understand exactly what you want out of your trip to Ibiza.

Think about how much moving around you'll be doing, what type of holiday you're looking for and what balance you're looking for between budget control and sheer unadulterated pleasure!

Staying in Ibiza towns a breeze. If your plan is to beach in the day, party at night and take in the vibe of a town that has so many dimensions to it, then I'd suggest leaving the driving licence at home. Public transports makes getting around easy all day and night! There's always plenty of taxi's, regular buses to key beaches, markets or day trips locations and the ferries run like clockwork.

My top-tip here is to try and avoid the hotels in Figueretes just south of the old town and North of Platja d'en Bossa unless you really are just there for sunshine and a good view. What these hotels may offer regards pool facilities they lack regards central location. They may look close to the centre on a map but the winding road network in these parts means a stroll in to Eivissa is around 25 minutes and they are not served particularly well by the bus network. With so many lovely beaches on Ibiza, who needs a pool!!

So plant yourself in the heart of Eivissa, anywhere between the northern edge of the Marina and Dalt Vila, the beautiful UNESCO protected old town that rises out of the sea like a sandstorm on a flat dessert. Take this advice and you'll have everything you need within walking distance, including great connections to other parts of the island.

The trick now is to balance your budget and here's some super recommendations:

Don't discount luxury hotels: Sometimes, the devils in the detail. For example when you stay at El Pacha hotel (www.elhotelpacha.com/english/ ), not only are you staying in well located luxury, you're on the guest list for Pacha every night of your stay. Top nights such as Friday's All Gone
Pete Tong night charge around 60€ on the door. This starts to save you around 120€ for two people, gives you the convenience of beating the queues and at the end of the night is a five minutes walk back to your bed. With convenience and cost saving, its got to be worth a look, especially on some of the hotel websites such as www.hotelscombined.com where we grabbed a great deal on El Pacha at the beginning of June for just 232€ a night.        

Clean, secure basics at a budget price. Think sprawling non-twee guest-house run by friendly locals where you can check-in and check-out without the hassle of pompous hotel receptions in the heart of the town. Situated in a tree-lined square populated with vibrant tapas restaurants and free-wifi (see the sign's dotted around for the passcode) Vara de Rey Guest House (www.hibiza.com), has cornered the perfect location in Ibiza town and delvers all the basics at a nice price.

Run by Lia, a Dutch lady by origin who has spend 25 years living on the white isle and engrained in the culture with a knowledge that will always lead you to a full-moon party or a hidden café-bar. The rooms first and foremost are secure, clean and well-maintained. Beyond that, you pay for what you want, be it a room with a view or ensuite bathroom. The reception doubles up as an impromptue art gallery. Bookings can be made directly with the hotel.

Location, Location, Location. Finally, if you're looking to experience the romance of Eivissa, little cobbled alleyways and stunning views over the old town and out to sea, then a stay at the boutique El Corsario (www.elcorsario-ibiza.com) will give you all of this. 

The small suite features a four poster king sized bed, sofa, bathroom and annex for a single second bed. But the best feature of El Corsario is the direction it faces and its height which dominates the Old Town skyline. Possibly a better location that the more expensive hotels in Dalt Vila such as the five star Hotel Mirador (www.hotelmiradoribiza.com). El Corsario's panoramic view stretches from the old town to the port and beyond. Looking down at dusk and you might enjoy one of the marching bands that parade through the winding streets during the height of the summer months.

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Look out for tomorrow's post which brings you some tips on how to make the most of beach-life in and around Eivissa.

Eivissa: The heart of Ibiza

I always wanted to visit Ibiza! Growing up in Manchester, visiting the Hacienda at the weekends or the Boardwalk, and generally building a love of electronic music, of which I still have today. But I never went! The idea of queuing for the plane, surrounded by kids who were attracted by the cheap package tours at the time, looking for low-cost booze, kebab's and a fight at the end of the night. I had enough of my nights in Manchester spoilt by that 'attitude' and so summers came and went without the homage to electronic music taking place!

That was the 80's, now fast forward to 2010. Better off, more refined and loving my electronic music more than ever, a windfall grand in the back pocket was the catalyst to say what the hell, lets do it. That stigma I describe is still there, not in my mind but the mind of the English middle classes who'd never venture there and the mention of a trip to Ibiza amongst management or peers at work would often bring a raising of the eyebrows,  that the person they trusted two seconds ago had just uttered the unthinkable.

But Ibiza is different from its popular image, different in many ways. It's cultural, diverse and true to its origins where families mingle with the party people, locals and bohemians, all happy and together in the knowledge that Ibiza is meant to be enjoyed by one and all.

One grand in a week however will not leave you any change so here's a hint......'spend it and enjoy everything Ibiza has to offer'.

2010 was my first trip to Ibiza which gave me a taster of everything Ibiza has to offer from the rural Northern tip to the soft sands of the southern beaches. Our 2011 trip focused on Eivissa without a car, a chance to relax, enjoy and consume. On both occasions, we indulged in our passion to scratch below the surface of our holiday destination and look out at our surroundings picking up the habits and behaviours of the locals as we rolled.  

For Ibiza, our love of food and atmosphere has been swelled on both occasions whilst my hearts relentless need for electronic music has finally been massaged with a homage to some of the greatest clubs and musicians on this little island they call 'the white isle'!

In recent weeks, the tabloids have demonstrated that Ibiza still has its demeaning side. It's usually called Sant Antoni but don't allow these reports to mask your perception of a beautiful island, which is sometimes also unashamedly brash.  
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This series of posts focus on my experience of Eivissa and delivers some top-tips for those with similar outlooks on life. Tomorrows posts covers tips for finding the right accomodation at the right price in Ibiza Town.